Marian Mikołaj Zgoda, Karolina Partyczyńska, Katarzyna Bujnicka, Justyna Kołodziejska, Sławomira Nowak, Zbigniew Marczyński, Magdalena Piechota Urbańska, Beata Skibska, Andrzej Stańczak

Prescription composition and profile of pharmacotherapeutic action of preparations used in the conservative treatment of seborrhea and acne
2021-01-18

Research studies have been performed on cosmetic creams for the treatment of acne, cleansing, bio-moisturizing and epidermis whitening as well as for reducing bacterial growth and preventing papulopustular lesions. There were used analytical methods recommended by the Polish Pharmacopoeia (PP X and XI) as well as Polish Standard (PN-ISO) for estimating morphological and pharmacotherapeutic properties of cosmetic preparations.

The determined high content of water and volatile components allowed to determine the morphological structure of cosmetic creams. They are „HIPRE”- type hydrogel emulsions. The thermodynamic parameters of therapeutic agents and phytochemicals contained in plant extracts and essential oils (Ʃ∆E_i, Ʃ∆V_i, δ^1/2, HLB_Requ.) allowed to calculate the particle radius (r) with the bioavailability coefficient=1.0, owing to which the Einstein-Smoluchowski equation was solved in the application system (D = k·T/σπr·η).

The practical viscosity determined by Casson’s method enabled to calculate the diffusion coefficient (D) and to estimate the proces of mass exchange at the phase boundary, which decides about the pharmacotherapeutic effectiveness of the tested preparations. The effective process of mass exchange at the phase boundary is evidenced by the calculated numerical values of the diffusion coefficients, and above all, the topological radius of diffusing molecules (r < 12Aº, 1Aº = 1.10^-10m). The conducted research emphasizes stable viscosity values of the preparation after application to the skin during medical and cosmetic treatments. The directional coefficients of the approximation equations at p = 0.05 characterize the degree of water phase dispersion (w) in the hydrogel structures of o/w (and/or w/o/w) emulsions, and primarilly the preferences for the rate of loss of water and volatile components under application conditions, while the slope of the line (a) of the approximation equations enables the morphological assessment of their structure. The obtained results made it possible to indicate the prescription components of the tested cosmetic creams which dissolve in the external phase and decide on the mass exchange profile at the phase boundary.

Keywords: cosmetic creams, acne lesions, skin bio-moisturizing, plant extracts, therapeutic agents.

© Farm Pol, 2020, 76(12): 676–685